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ICM Partners' Chuck  James, the office fashion mentor who helps everybody from mailroom interns to young brokers up their model recreation, gives recommendation for THR's Next Gen model clinic.


When Chuck James, founding associate and senior motion image expertise agent at ICM Partners, started within the leisure enterprise within the early 2000s, expertise companies still embraced conformity. "In the event you weren't in a darkish go well with, red tie, black sneakers and black socks, you stood out like a sore thumb," he says. "It was about falling in line and being conservative." James, who began in the mailroom just a little later than most after enjoying aggressive tennis, distinguished himself by carrying objects like a black-and-white hounds­tooth shirt ("I used to be in a position to cobble collectively sufficient to buy an Etro costume shirt," he says). "Now, over the last decade, however more so the last five years, Hollywood has opened the door for folks to have their very own persona," says James, who reps Recreation of Thrones' Carice van Houton, Megan Fox and Linda Cardellini. "It's appeared on as a plus and not a detriment to your career."


Identified for his forward take on fashion, James wears every little thing from the latest Gucci runway couture shirt, to a linen swimsuit with tennis shoes (not sneakers, a holdover from his tennis days), to his mother's diamond pins on his tuxedo lapel for the crimson carpet. "I don't even like to face subsequent to the man," jokes client Meredith Vieira. "He is the epitome of cool but does not seem like he's making an attempt." Adds Westworld's Rodrigo Santoro, a consumer: "This guy stands out in a town of stylish individuals because he savors all the main points — the pocket handkerchief will probably be the precise tone, the collar, the socks, the tie will pick up on one thing else. The word is 'impeccable.'"


Such authority has led to James turning into the de facto fashion mentor to a generation of ICM brokers, trainees and mailroom interns. "What I have learned from Chuck is: People get a sense of you once you walk right into a room, so your type ought to say who you might be and that you've got shown up," says a "mentee," agent Andrew Kurland, whose young roster includes American Horror Story's Taissa Farmiga. "It's turn into aggressive in trying to outdo each other in being unique and inventive whereas still toeing the road," says James, as he details what goes into a successful look on a price range extra entry-level than energy participant.


Yes, Tailoring Is Crucial


"Suits that do not match damage your first impression," says James, who learned the importance of tailoring from seeing the results for actor purchasers. "If a go well with's not tailored properly, it makes you look disheveled, unconfident and twice as heavy as you are." His tailor of choice is Art Mark, the proprietor of Beverly Hills Tailoring (9451 Charleville Blvd., Beverly Hills). "Art's the most effective tailor in L.A. — and affordable. He can take one of the $300 Grand Frank linen fits I purchase to augment my wardrobe and make it seem like a $3,000 suit" (GrandFrank.com).


Within the era of ankle-baring men's trousers and shrunken Thom Browne suit jackets, do not overdo it: "There's what I would name 'excessive tailoring' — guys' suits with pants so short or jackets so tight that they cannot even move," says James. "You might have to ensure you can sit and stand and not appear to be you're trying too arduous."


No Have to Attempt On Fits


For a disruptive take on traditional bespoke tailoring, James recommends each the look and value factors of Articles of Style, a web based retailer founded by former model blogger Dan Trepanier. Working only with American manufacturers, the suits are fitted through a pattern garment despatched to the client created by way of an algorithm and then analyzed in photographs before a last garment is lower. (from $1,095; ArticlesofStyle.com). Per James' recommendation, "I literally threw out my other fits and received 9 of these," says agent Kevin Hussey, who works with Katie Holmes and Jeff Goldblum amongst different shoppers. "I even obtained married in one of their tuxedoes. There is no such thing as a lining or shoulder pads in these fits, so it keeps you nice and comfortable."


For cheap ferragamo belt outlet Belts (ferragamoshoesdiscount.authenticfans.com), well-made button-downs, Charles Tyrwhitt, a British shirtmaker with a flagship on London's Jermyn Street, makes its offerings straightforward to order online. "I like the unfold-collar costume shirt," says Hussey, which "comes a couple of days" after ordering, good for purple carpet procrastinators (slim-match costume shirt, from $69; CTShirts.com).


Unhealthy Sneakers & Belts: Profession Killers


"If I had been an artist, I would not signal with somebody who had bad sneakers," says James, half jokingly. "One of many male species' worst lack of abilities is buying footwear. You continue to see those excessive square toes which were 'out' for a decade on guys who have considerably of a very good suit on."


The agent is partial to Gucci and ferragamo belt outlet for his personal footwear, but there are many choices for up-and-comers, from on-line retailer Cobbler Union's monk straps and lace-ups ($395; Cobbler-Union.com) to Allen Edmonds lace-ups, which agent J.R. Ringer describes as "an incredible center-of-the-week go-to" ($395; 10250 Santa Monica Blvd.). "Even if you may afford only one pair of superb sneakers and wear them every day, make certain that they're polished and alter out the laces. Individuals will think you may have new footwear on every day," advises James.


As for belts, he says, "most guys buckle them too tight, or even worse, too loose. They're at all times too large" and aren't thought-about the funding buy that they needs to be. He suggests the handmade crocodile belts at Scully & Scully that retail for a fraction of the value of $2,500 models from top designer maestros ($265; ScullyandScully.com).


Stand Out With Accessories


"Since we're sporting fits and ties five days every week," says Ringer, "it is vital to not wear shirts and ties from the identical store or brand, or fall right into a rut and look the identical on daily basis." (Charles Tyrwhitt has dapper ties from $49, an excellent useful resource contemplating companies are the final bastion of the obligatory tie in Hollywood.) The agent who reps Lucy Hale, Jay Duplass and Lil Yachty will sport a muted tie with a extra colorful swimsuit, or vice versa.


California firm Garrett Leight makes eyeglasses which are a twist on the traditional 1950s Ivy League vibe (from $335; 165 S. La Brea Ave.). "Accessories must be worn in moderation — they shouldn't detract or make you are feeling uneasy," says James, citing such fast-moving trends as "the attack of the killer flower lapel pins" during last 12 months's awards season or chunky, sporty sneakers with fits, which "appear like a nurse working at a hospital."


No Massive Meetings? Not a Swimsuit Day


"When people come to California, it is very complicated and so they are inclined to put on sweaters which are too hot or not warm enough," says James, a Florida native. Naadam's cashmere pullover and cardigans, good for an company retreat, "are the perfect weight and as good a quality as I've seen at the very best-finish designer stores" (V-neck; $125, Naadam.co). Venice-primarily based Buck Mason is beneficial for T-shirts (curved hem tee; $28, BuckMason.com) and Kith, a wildly widespread NYC sneaker retailer, for "upscale kicks that can also look nice with fits," says James (from $135; Kith.com). For many all the things else, Grand Frank, a Swedish online menswear company, delivers quality at reasonably priced prices. Says James, 47, of a $290 jacket product of handcrafted leather-based from Italy: "The suede bombers appear and feel like they value 10 occasions that."


This story first appeared within the Nov. 8 problem of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click on right here to subscribe.